Villa Rustica: Not just another Italian restaurant
This is part of the online edition of Port Chester Westmore News.

Co-owner Anthony Muoio at the pizza oven in his new restaurant, Villa Rustica Pizzeria & Trattoria in Rye Brook.
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By Jananne Abel
August 01, 2007

The Garden Plaza Restaurant closed earlier this year after 26 years in the Washington Park Plaza at 261 South Ridge St. In its place brothers Anthony and Michael Muoio opened Villa Rustica Pizzeria & Trattoria on June 11 after 5 ½ months of renovations. Yes, there are plenty of Italian restaurants in Rye Brook and Port Chester, but there’s always room for one more if it’s good. Each has its own specialties and atmosphere that set it apart. If the only other restaurant in the shopping center were also Italian, it might have been considered redundant. But since Eclisse was replaced by Frank’s Steaks in March, Villa Rustica is no doubt a welcome addition to those who work in the center and those who live in the neighborhood. It’s also a viable alternative to the other local Italian restaurants and pizzerias.

As with many Italian eateries, Villa Rustica is a family affair. Two brothers own the place, and they come from a family that has been in the restaurant business for 45 years. Their dad, Tony, had pizzerias in the Bronx and Mt. Vernon, and the family currently owns and operates two Italian restaurants and pizzerias in Yonkers—Louie & Johnnie’s Pizza Café and Pizza Express.

Not knowing what to expect, I was pleasantly surprised by both the attractive décor and the food at Villa Rustica. Everything we tried we liked—from the taste, to the presentation, to the service, and even the prices, which are reasonable. We felt welcome and well taken care of.

Anthony Muoio, 36, who has lived in Rye Brook for eight years, said he chose this location to open a new restaurant because “I knew the town needed something like this.”

He added that “it’s easy parking, a safe atmosphere, a real family place.” He and his wife Lisa have a daughter Madison, who is 2 ½. Brother Michael, 29, who lives in Riverdale, is in charge of the kitchen while Anthony heads up the restaurant’s wait staff and customer service.

Anthony didn’t name a particular chef who is in charge, saying that he and his brother prepare the tomato sauce and dough in the morning. They also make their own mozzarella. He also stressed that all dishes are made to order and may therefore require a little waiting time.

Many specialties

Pizza is definitely a specialty, and Villa Rustica has a pie for everyone. The brick oven style pizza is the most popular, with the Napoli (fresh mozzarella, peeled plum tomatoes and Italian seasonings) getting top billing followed by Mamma Maria (roasted peppers, grilled eggplant and Portobello mushrooms) and Quattro Formaggio (mozzarella, gorgonzola, parmigiana and ricotta). These thin-crusted pizzas come in three sizes. The pizzette (6 smaller pieces designed for one or two people) is $8.95, small 16” pies range from $13 for the Napoli to $18 for varieties with meat such as Quattro Stagioni (prosciutto, artichoke hearts and sun-dried tomatoes), and large 18” pies go for from $14 to $20.

I ordered a Quattro Formaggio pizzette for home delivery and found it thin, light, slightly tangy, and yummy. I ate four pieces—which was plenty--and had two left over. The restaurant advertises free delivery, and there is no minimum order to get that service in Rye Brook, Port Chester, Harrison, White Plains, Rye and Greenwich.

There are also gourmet pizzas in either brick oven or classic style (the latter has a thicker crust) ranging in price from $15 for a small Al Fresco (fresh basil, diced Roma tomatoes and onions) to $20 for a large Meat Lovers (sausage, ham, meatball, pepperoni and mozzarella).

If you prefer to choose your own toppings, they cost $2 each for a half pie and $3 each for a whole one on top of the basic $12 small and $14 large charge.

Besides all of these, you can get a Sicilian pizza or Focaccia (chopped Roma tomatoes, Italian seasoning, fresh basil and olive oil) for $15.

Fourteen salads grace the menu, and Anthony said the Tuscan (romaine lettuce, gorgonzola, cranberries, sliced pears and walnuts) is the most popular followed by South Beach (mixed field greens tossed with grape tomatoes, cucumbers, mandarin oranges, almonds, dried cranberries, green apples and crumbled gorgonzola served with balsamic vinegar and olive oil) and Cobb (mixed greens, grape tomatoes, gorgonzola, hard-boiled eggs and bacon). All are priced at $5.95 for lunch or $7.95 for dinner.

Pasta specialties include Bucatini Marechiare (chopped clams, shrimp and scallops in a plum tomato sauce over a thick, spaghetti-like pasta with a hole running through the center), priced at $11.95 for lunch and $16.95 for dinner, Penne Vodka ($9.95 lunch, $12.95 dinner) and Whole Wheat Penne Primavera (broccoli, zucchini, carrots, choice of garlic and oil or cream sauce), priced at $11.95 for lunch and $15.95 for dinner.

The most popular entrées are Chicken Scarpariella (on the bone or boneless with sausage, potatoes and vinegar peppers in a lemon, garlic and white wine sauce) at $10.95 for lunch and $15.95 for dinner, Chicken Francese (chicken breast dipped in egg batter, lemon and white wine sauce) at the same prices, Veal Amici (scallopine of veal, Portobello mushrooms, sundried tomatoes, artichoke hearts and peas in a marsala wine sauce at $11.95 and $16.95 and Veal Rollatine (scallopine of veal stuffed with prosciutto, mozzarella and fresh mushrooms in a marsala wine sauce) at the same prices.

Wraps are also big, particularly South Beach (field greens, grilled chicken, almonds, gorgonzola, mandarin oranges, dried cranberries, oil and balsamic vinegar), Honey Chicken (grilled chicken breast with fresh spinach, tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and honey mustard sauce) and the Mikey Special (grilled chicken, fresh mozzarella, Portobello mushrooms and roasted peppers). All wraps, folded into a plain, whole wheat, spinach or multi grain tortilla, cost $7.95. The same concoctions can also be had as Panini.

Steaks and chops, eggplant and seafood dishes, heroes, charbroiled burgers, calzones and pizza rolls round out the menu.

A children’s menu features seven items, all priced at $5.95. The restaurant is not offering daily specials for now, co-owner Anthony Muoio said, especially since the menu is already so extensive, but they will be added “once we get the kinks out.”

Attractive decor

The Muoios spent half a million dollars transforming the Garden Plaza Restaurant into the attractive Italian eatery it is today. “I designed the whole place,” Muoio said proudly.

The look here is open and airy. It features a striking copper-colored tin ceiling, red brick walls offset by two large framed posters—one advertising wine, the other pasta.

Two TVs break up the opposite wall of the long restaurant, where the seating for 56 is at the front, the brick pizza oven and a large wooden wine rack at the back.

Pretty rectangular laminated tables have a darker wood trim surrounding lighter wooden squares highlighted by tiny silver ones.

Lovely wood-backed chairs have magenta and beige fabric seats that coordinate with the drapes tied back at the front windows and door and the magenta napkins. A rich wooden partition creates a walkway into the restaurant along the left side of the space and defines the dining room. Matching decorative half-walls enclose the pizza oven, takeout and serving area. They are adorned with red candles and a vase of red and white silk gladiolas.

Ample lighting is provided by recessed lights within some of the tin ceiling squares. Golden glass light fixtures hang over the pizza oven and takeout area which is open for all to see. A larger light fixture with fan figures in the center of this section. A beige ceramic tile floor completes the picture.

Dinner for two

My first meal with my husband at Villa Rustica was a pleasant one. We both went away raving about the food, atmosphere and service.

The meal started with a basket of Arthur Avenue bread and a toosmall dish of olive oil.

We ordered a bottle of La Scolca Bianco Gavi ($29) from Italy, described on the wine list as “very dry and pleasantly fresh with a crisp and refreshing acidity.” It was light and dry but not remarkable. There are no wine buckets, but our wonderful waiter offered to hold the bottle in the refrigerator and keep our glasses filled. And he did a pretty good job of it.

The wine list features many reasonably-priced varieties--whites from Italy and California in the $27 to $49 range, reds from Italy, New Zealand, California, Australia and Washington in the $28 to $80 range as well as 10 wines that can be ordered by the glass at $6 and $7 or bottle at $22 to $25.

My husband chose an appetizer and salad for his meal, as he is so often apt to do. He went with the New Zealand mussels fra diavolo ($8.95). They can also be ordered blanco or marinara. The mussels, opened and stacked for easy eating and beautiful presentation, were meaty and the marinara sauce was spiced to our liking.

The stuffed mushrooms ($8.95) struck my fancy and for good reason. They were scrumptious, maybe the best I’ve ever had. Seven goodsized mushrooms were stuffed with ground beef, mushrooms, Reggiano cheese and seasoned bread crumbs and baked in the oven. They were flavorful and juicy.

The Cobb salad ($7.95) featured mixed greens, quartered grape tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs and crumbled gorgonzola cheese with freshly-cooked bacon on top. The house-made vinaigrette came in a separate container on the side. The freshness of the ingredients and the ability to add your own dressing were pluses.

Pining for pasta, I thought the Gnocchi al Fresco ($14.95) sounded interesting. It promised a sauce of cherry tomatoes, garlic and oil topped with melted Buffalo mozzarella. The gnocchi themselves were small and surprisingly light, as was the sauce, so the dish was all in all an excellent choice. Nonetheless, I brought half of it home.

I wanted to try a dessert, but there was only room for ice cream, so the Flute Limoncello ($6.95) seemed like a good bet. Described as “refreshing lemon gelato swirled together with limoncello, presented in a champagne glass,” it lived up to the description. If you’re full but just want a little something sweet, this dessert hits the spot.

Other desserts include gelato (the chocolate is rich and delicious), homemade tiramisu, New York and mini ricotta cheesecake, chocolate truffle mousse, carrot cake, cannoli, tartuffo and sorbetto. Prices range from $2.95 to $6.95.

Our tab including a coffee and a cappuccino: $89.39.

Other recommendations

On another visit two different house wines by the glass were both excellent: Columbia Crest chardonnay (which I’ve had at home) and Folonari pinot grigio.

The baked clams ($8.95) were also a hit devoured by our entire party of four. My husband enjoyed the Rustica Salad ($7.95) of shaved Reggiano cheese, white cannelini beans, arugula, endive, radicchio and red onions.

My daughter was told she had to order the Chicken Francese ($14.95) which had been recommended by a friend and was completely satisfied with the light, lemony entrée. She was only disappointed that it didn’t come with a vegetable. The side choices to go with entrées are penne with tomato sauce, potato croquettes or salad. She ordered the latter but ate it all before the chicken arrived.

Aside from having an overabundance of black olives, the seafood salad ($10.95), which combined a wonderful mix of calamari, scungilli, shrimp, crabmeat, lemon, garlic, olive oil and vinegar peppers, was delightful.

This time we fed four people for $109.09, which, besides what was mentioned above, included a mixed drink, a pizzette ($8.95), Veal Piccata ($15.95), two desserts and a coffee. Hours, parking, etc.

Villa Rustica is open Monday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Sunday from 12 noon to 9 p.m. There is plenty of free parking in the Washington Park Plaza lot.

Knock on wood, Anthony Muoio said business has been very good for July and August.

Villa Rustica Pizzeria & Trattoria is located in the Washington Park Plaza at 261 South Ridge St.

This is part of the online edition of Port Chester Westmore News.

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